Self-rimming sinks drop into a hole cut in the countertop. A metal flange, or rim, around the top of the sink  provides support. Stainless-steel sinks typically are held in place with metal clips tightened from below (cast-iron sinks don’t need them). Self-rimming sinks are relatively easy to install. However, the lip around the edge of a selfrimming sink is a great collector of kitchen debris, so these sinks are harder to keep clean than flushmounts or undermounts. All self-rimming sinks should be sealed with a bead of silicone caulk toprevent leaks.

Flush-mount sinks often are called tile-edge sinks because the top edge of the sink is designed to be flush with a tile countertop. Flush-mounts are installed in much the same way as self-rimming sinks. Depending on the thickness of the tile and tile adhesive, though, the installer may have to shim or rout the edge of the counter substrate so that the sink and counter are flush. Caulk should be used to seal the sink in place as well as to fill the gap between the edge of the sink and the tile.

Undermount sinks are tucked completely beneaththe counter, so crumbs, food, and other kitchen debris can be swept easily into the sink. Installation, however, is much more exacting. The clearance hole must be cut perfectly because the surrounding edge of the countertop is completely visible once the sink is installed. Heavy undermounts, like those made from stone or cast iron, should be supported from below. Solid-surface  undermount sinks are unique because they are glued to the countertop; seams are virtually invisible. There is no chance of a leak and no place for kitchen debris to collect. A really skilled installer can make custom undermount sinks. The downside is higher cost and greater installation difficulty. This job is for a pro.

Although sinks come in as many sizes as they do colors and materials, the de facto American benchmark is a 33-in. by 22-in. two-bowl design. It fits right into a standard 36-in. sink cabinet.  Some sinks  come with equally sized bowls, but most will suggest two different sizes: one 10-in.-deep bowl big enough to handle a broiler pan or cookie sheet, and one smaller, shallower bowl used for washing vegetables and  equipped with a waste disposer. Manufacturers will make some three bowl designs but most people will not need to have that third bowl. It tends to be more sink than you will ever need. The key is getting a big pan all the way into the bottom of the larger bowl to avoid washing one end of it and turning it around to wash the other. Measure the largest pan you’re likely to wash in the sink, then choose a bowl that will handle it. Remember that thick outside walls afford less interior room than thinner ones.

(pros) Durable, nonporous, and repairable, with colors or patterns that go all the way through; good sound-deadening qualities; sinks can be glued into solid-surface counters for seamless connection.

(cons) Can be relatively expensive and may not be aesthetically suitable with all countertop materials.

(pros) Durable; easily customized; good sound-deadening properties; can be cast as part of finished countertop.

(cons) Expensive and heavy; may stain; must be resealed periodically.

(pros) Very hard finish with high durability; good sound-deadening qualities; can be painted before firing.

(cons) Can chip; high cost.